Designers and Competition of 1992

Overview:

• What are the biggest selling bags? During 1992, bags that were large, neutral in color, and had multiple purposes were big sellers. 
  
• Why are they the most popular? The most popular were again large, neutral, and mirrored the classic Kelly bag of the 50's and 60's. Fanny packs were also a common sighting of the 90's on a more casual occasion. 
• What do they have to offer the costumer? The bags are practical and cohesive with the clothing statement of comfort and casual. 
• How long have they been popular for? The neutral colors and practical, minimal structures remain popular. Fanny backs and plaid backpacks of the Grunge era fade. 
• What are the intended uses for the bag? Everyday use. The 90's was all about "anti" fashion and practicality. A woman's purse was to be versatile and multifunctional.

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Research:

During the 90's, fashion turns against itself in an attempt to become "anti" fashionable with the emergence of grunge and minimalist styles. The emergence of this style left couture fashion houses puzzled and at a loss.  According to Constance White and Jennifer Steinhauer of The New York Times, "by 1992 , the fashion houses problems were becoming painfully evident. Fashion houses could not satisfy a customer who now wanted comfort rather than constraint, versatility instead of formality, and better value" . As a result, "some of the largest and most prestigious companies, like Calvin Klein in the United States and Gruppo GFT, which sold collections by top designers like Giorgio Armani, Valentino, and Claude Montana, ran into financial trouble as women rejected expensive, tailored clothes."  Because women, and men alike, were turning towards more affordable, comfortable clothing, companies such as GAP and Eddie Bauer became promising retailers. This progression towards a less couture industry affected handbags as well.  Handbags went to extremes - plaid backpacks, fanny packs, chain wallets, and minimal pieces by high end designers, such as Prada were all apparent during the 90's. 

Prada became a leading force in fashion, producing sophisticated pieces in neutrals, such as black, grays, and cream which became signature Prada colors. In 1992, Prada presented a more affordable line, Miu Miu. The designs remained simple and classic. Christian Lacroix was another designer that revealed a less expensive line accompanied by an accessories line.  Competition was apparent between Prada and Gucci, who had became an international success earning themselves the Brand of the Year award. 

Marc Jacobs who was designing ready-to-wear for Perry Ellis at the time, "introduced a collection of clothes inspired by music, the street, and youth culture. The casual, rumpled attitude of the clothes was fashion's interpretation of the guitar heavy, rock 'n' roll music popularized by a host of bands coming out of Seattle, Washington - most significantly Nirvana and Pearl Jam" (Icons of Fashion).  Ana Sui, Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfield  were other designers that engaged in 90's Grunge. 

"But critics judged Grunge harshly because it was unattractive and impractical for most women over the age of twenty-five. And designers realized that they could not maintain their high-toned image while peddling clothes that looked as if they had been plucked from the dirty laundry basket. In less than a year, Grunge died at the hands of unimpressed consumers. While the initial reaction to Grunge was negative from both critics and consumers, and the trend itself short-lived, the style ultimately helped to expand the definition of what could be considered fashion. It continued a tradition begun decades earlier of allowing music and youth styles to influence the ateliers. In its wake, Grunge left fashion more comfortable, accommodating, and relaxed." (Icons of Fashion). 

Contrasting Grunge was that of purism and clean chic. Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, and Jil Sander's were the innovators of new these new classics. Through reduction, restriction, and simplicity these designers captivated the tradition of functional American clothing. 
The Video Below is a Calvin Klein Commercial that aired in 1992.

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Related Accessories & Technology:

• Accessories mirrored minimalism of handbags. 

• By the end of the 1990's, the internet had become a necessity. Now connected, individuals were able to express themselves and find inspiration through a whole new form of media. In addition, the Filofax was replaced with laptops and electronic organizers, giving briefcases a renewed purpose. Mobile phones were also a popular technological advance of the 90's.    
  

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Article Findings of 1992:

Should Real Men Carry Handbags?

By Libby-Jane Charleston 

Men want to keep it simple with minimal accessories - cuff links, a watch, and a collar pin. However, the addition of a man purse may be in the near future. According to recent fashion trends, "men's handbags are an accessory that is recently climbing the fashion stakes' approval" and surprisingly men are not all opposed. "Some men refuse to carry one, while others think they are a necessity." Practical for the workman carrying documents, an organizer, and whatever other accessories suit his needs, the man purse is functional. However, the briefcase serves the same purpose and doesn't leave him feeling less of a man. From a future viewpoint, the man purse was a flop of the early 1990's. 

Handbags go Bigger, More Practical

By Dianna Lawrence 

- This is the direct article

Is it a bag or a suitcase? That seemed to be the big question in Europe as models lugged oversized satchels, totes, and handbags down the runways during the fall shows. "Bags are much larger this season," says Jane Short, handbags and leather goods buyer for Holt Renfrew, 

"and the newest shape is the briefbag. It's really a combination handbag and briefcase: the totebag all grown up."

The new, more structured handbag  silhouettes offer a polished, professional look with room to carry documents and your regular purse contents. "Multipurpose is the key word,' says Short. "Women want their bags to fill a wise variety of functions, so there are lots of compartments and pockets with zippers for security. And the new clothing, which is longer and closer to the body, begs for something bigger." 

Woven and soft materials (like calfskin) are popular, advises Short, and animal prints in all accessories are "blowing out of our store." The Chanel influence is still strong and quilted bags with chain straps are everywhere. Totebags and knapsacks are also still important in casual wear. 

"Bags are bigger and a little more practical," says Fairweather spokesperson Angela Brandon, "because a woman with a busy lifestyle needs something more sensible. For may women buying accessories in this economy, one bag has to do it all. It's an investment."

The neutral color story this season also means versatility: classic shades are plentiful. Bags in black, brown, burgundy, and navy coordinate with a variety of outfits. 

And at the opposite end of the spectrum, but sill of a practical nature, is the military-style belt-bag. Tailored-looking, with one or two pouches attached, it frees your hands while providing storage for car keys, cosmetics, and cash. 

"People are trying to simplify their lives," says Brandon, "and that trend is being reflected everywhere in fashion this year."

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Vital Accessory; Handbags carry weight this season

By Iona Monahan

Handbags small enough for a lipstick and a handkerchief or big enough to serve as an overnight bag are part of the accessory scene this season. The newest bags are structured, very reminiscent of the styles of the 50's and 60's; big satchel sized shapes are softer, less defined in shape but considerably more practical. Novelty bags are making a comeback into fashion and designer Emanuelle Khahn's "doggy bag" is a fine example of the fun-fashion accessory. Two bigger bags, one a plaid version of the schoolbag, the other a fake-snake satchel, are more accommodating. The status bag, everywhere and at many prices, is any updated version of the famous Kelly bag, carried by Grace Kelly in the 50's.